No Pictures or Anything
Hypertufa Kid
Here is a copy (edited a little) of some
emailes I recently exchanged whith"Alex" (not his real
name).
I hope you find them
interesting.
MY name is Alex and I
live in Albuquerque
I make Garden green men and
gargoyles and I am having a heck of a time finding the right
concrete recipe to cast them. They are small most no more than
8" tall or across with very fine detail. I have experimented
with making my own hydrostone but it sets very very quickly
even with adding vinegar to slow the setting time and it really
has very poor structural integrity when its sets.
So I have gone back to using
concrete but it takes forever to set and is very fragile when
it comes out of the mold. I lose many noses and eyebrows out of
the pieces when i pull them from the molds.
So I ask for your advice on
this.
Have you tried hydrocal? You mix
it like plaster - it expands a little when it sets - but on a
8" casting it should not matter much. When it sets it is very
hard (way harder than pl;aster), but imperfections can be
sanded out easily.
You can buy it anyplace they sell
supplies for contractors in the drywall business. The last sack
I bought was a bout $25 for 25 pounds.
It is easy to use and captures
detail well.
Hydro cal is the same as
hydrostone with white Portland cement instead of grey. I know
it is a mix of plaster and Portland but I cant work out the
ratios and slow the set time.
More over it breaks down in the
weather thats is why I am looking for a low cost cement mix for
small detailed items.
So if you know a good one drop a
line
I can't think of anything that
might help you Alex except finishing concrete. You probably
tried it and didn't have any luck.
Last night I remembered a guy I
know was making small statues using very fine sand mixed
with his Portland cement. I don't know where
he was getting the sand, but it was very fine almost like
Clay.
I remember he told me that he
used to go around to hotels and take sand out of the ashtrays
but it wasn't good enough.
The only problem he had was
because the sand was so small there was no real strength in the
concrete. But like he said for decorations it didn't matter
anyway is not like they had to withstand a nuclear blast or
anything.
I was wondering what would happen
if you use something like talc, or maybe get some clay and dry
it. The problem with clay I think would be that it's dirty
(organic material in it most of the time) and the resulting
concrete would not have much strength.
I hope this helps some. Del
Alex says:
Can you remember the ratio
Portland to sand?
I don't think I asked, I probably
assumed he was mixing it like normal concrete Alex.
I would start that way if I was
doing it and then work from there. I might be tempted to add
some fiber to the mix to compensate for the lack of aggregates.
The trouble with that is the fiber may show in the casting.
I guess you would have to play it
by ear.
I was reading our notes again
with the idea of using them as the basis for an article.
I noticed you said the concrete
does not harden fast enough. You could try adding a little
baking soda to it, this sets it up very fast.
It is a trick from the old wooden
boat days when Portland cement was mixed with water to spread
over the caulking on the seams between the planking.
The copper bottom paint was
painted over this and it had to set fast so the boat could be
launched before the paint dried. If the paint was dry at
launching it would not work properly.
Experiment a little - I remember
once when the painters put in to much baking soda and the
bucket of cement was smoking! It was to hot to touch! It
hardened so fast he could not get his mixing bit out of it.
Let me know if any of this helps,
Del
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